David –
Having recovered from our journey to Trinidad, it was soon time to plan the return to Havana. We asked our host “please, can you arrange a collective back to the capital with a driver who wont kill us?!”
The drive back couldn’t have been more contrasting. A yellow 1990’s Peugeot arrived. Wow seat belts! We were joined by two Americans who were also heading back to Havana. It wasn’t long until we stopped for fuel. Immediately after the car re-started, the engine spluttered and died. “Mierda” he cursed as he slammed the steering wheel.
After rooting around the engine, pulling the fuel pump out and spilling petrol everywhere, followed by throwing a bucket of water over the engine, we cautiously re-entered. Over the course of the 4.5 hour trip we would break down 4 times. Lucky we were on Cuban time.
We arrived in Old Havana and we were excited to explore the vibrant, loud and bustling city! We queued up to buy a few hours of internets and headed out to see the city with a walking tour.
On the surface, you could really see how the old city of Havana was the jewel in the Spanish Colonial crown. The Spanish had created amazing buildings over centuries – Havana had celebrated 500 years in November 2019 and it was clear why it was a UNESCO heritage listed.
Although it was a big group (25 of us) we covered a huge part of the old city. The rich Spanish families from Galica had made fortunes from the sugar, tobacco industries and of course the slave trade which occurred throughout most parts of the Caribbean.
The revolution was of course a huge part of Cuban culture and we heard how Fidel and his close friend Ernesto (Che) Guevera had succeeded to over-throw the former President on January 1st, 1953. The ensuing US embargo has deeply effected Cuban lives ever since.
We also heard about the preservation of Afro-Cuban religions. The slaves from Africa maintained their beliefs, but disguised them as roman catholic rituals to appease the Spanish, who believed they had converted to Catholicism.
Over the centuries the two religions underwent ‘synchronicity’ through which the two belief systems became one (although the Pope is still at the head of one of these systems).
Both Fidel and Che smoked cigars (despite the latter suffering from Asthma his whole life). The Cohiba was Fidels cigar of choice where as Che’s favorite was the Monte Cristo’s! We found lots of these being peddled on street corners but were warned that we should only buy from the official government shops!
As we had a few months in Central and South America we were keen to learn Spanish so we could not only get around a little easier but also converse with the friendly locals. Before we left Canberra, Lauren and I booked ourselves into the Barclays School of Languages for a week of intensive Spanish immersion!
Our new accommodation was in Centro Havana – and we were definitely in a different part of town. Our little room with two military-style beds reminded us of school camps, but the lovely family we were staying with made up for the lack of amenities.
Walking from our Casa Particular to Barclays each morning was an experience in itself. The old colonial buildings look totally dilapidated due to the lack of funds available to maintain them after the revolution.
Every other balcony had collapsed (or looked like they were about to), wooden supports propped up columns and beams. Bins overflowing with rotting garbage would greet you at each corner. We would dodge broken pavement and dog poos (sometimes unsuccessfully!).
Our Spanish lessons were delivered by a Professor from the University of Havana! The school’s policy was to only deliver the lessons in Spanish so it was definitely an intense week of learning. Thank god for Google Translate or we would still be figuring out the difference between ‘this’, ‘that’, ‘these’, and ‘those’ (FYI its esto, eso, estos, esos). Through interpretation and the very rare English word, Prof Belkis informed us that she is able to treble her income by giving Spanish lessons part time!
Christmas day came and went! We knew Cuba was a quiet place to spend the festive period but it isn’t anything like what we had ever experienced. The shopping centers were somewhat busy but it was the lack of anything to buy that was really weird. We celebrated the day by heading out to explore, eat our favorite ice cream and have a Cuban rum daiquiri!
On our way to celebrate Christmas dinner, Lauren was snapping some fantastic pictures in the streets of Old Town when I was approached by an energetic Cuban asking where we are from, how we are enjoying Havana and that he is playing Bongo’s in the Salsa Fiesta tomorrow night. My new amigo said he would write down the address and asked the barman for pen and paper, he asked me to sit while he wrote down the details.
Keen to practice our Spanish I accepted his offer to buy us a drink. After a rather forced and awkward conversation we said we had to go dinner and said Adios! I don’t actually know if he plays Bongos but I can confirm that it was me who was expected to pay for the drinks when the barman came back with the bill! It was a ridiculous $40 AUD for three watery drinks and I exclaimed that I didn’t have enough, put down $10 and walked out.
We had been recommended to visit Fábrica de Arte Cubano. On our last night in Cuba we headed out with Nicole who we met at Barclays to find out more! We found ourselves in an art gallery come night club/live music venue with food trucks which was set up in an old factory that had been restored. Its was a super cool concept and we found ourselves sitting in on a fashion show, joining in on Rumba lessons and listening to rock and roll!
In typical Cuban fashion, on our last day we walked into a street party, some serious dance moves were being performed in the crowd and we couldn’t help but join in!
All in all Havana was an experience not to be forgotten. It was the first time on our trip where we felt a little unsettled. It was difficult to live in and after a while we both felt rather exhausted with the obstacles of life in Cuba. We wouldn’t have missed visiting there and don’t regret our choice, but we definitely came away with a new found appreciation of life in Australia and all the opportunities that brings.
Far Away From Home 